Glossary of Cosmetic Ingredients, Essential Oils & Botanical Extracts

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algae extract: rich in the same vital nutrients, trace elements, and amino acids present in human blood plasma, allowing it to penetrate the skin more thoroughly than most other ingredients. It speeds the elimination of toxins from cells and is a natural cellular renewal ingredient. It also helps to nourish and remineralize the skin. A wonderfully versatile ingredient. Found to be stimulating, revitalizing, and nourishing to the skin, with anti-inflammatory and disinfectant abilities. Seems to be effective in treating acne based on its presumed antibiotic properties, which offer the skin protection against infection. Highly moisturizing and moisture balancing.

algin: also known as potassium or sodium alginate, this derivative of brown seaweed is used as a gelling and thickening

allantoin: a compound that occurs naturally in wheat sprouts, tobacco seed, comfrey, and sugar beets. It is an effective healing agent that helps to promote cellular renewal, and it has a soothing and softening effect.

almond oil: serves as an emollient and a carrier, providing an elegant skin feel and promoting product spreadability. Very similar in comparison to olive oil.

aloe vera: derived from the aloe vera (true aloe) plant, one of the oldest medicinal plants known. Widely reveared and used by the ancient Egyptians and Native Americans, it has remarkabel healing abilities because it is a natural oxygenator (drawing and holding oxygen to the skin). For this same reason, it is one of the most effective cellular renewal ingredients available for use in cosmetics. It has a composition similar to that of human blood plasma and sea water, and because its pH is the same as human skin, it is extremely soothing and protective, and very effective in replenishing lost moisture. It is also a natural astringent.

alpha lipoic acid: a powerful, water and fat soluble universal antioxidant and excellent anti-inflammatory. Speeds cellular metabolism and skin's own ability to heal, improves texture and tone.

aminomethylpropanal: a neutralizing agent.

ammonium laureth sulfate: a surfactant with emulsfying capabilities; used as an anionic surfatant cleanser.

amp: aminomethylpropanol, a neutralizing agent.

aprocot kernel oil: an emollient with a nongreasy feel; excellent moisturizing and softening abilities. Rapidly absorbed by skin, has a high vitamin E content that can help skin retain elasticity, clarity and suppleness.

arbutin: naturally occuring plant compound and effective tyrosinase inhibitor for reducing hyperpigmentation. A good natural alternative to hydroquinone.

arctium lappa extract: see burdock root

arnica extract: a botanical extract credited with a wide variety of properties including anti-inflammatory, circulation stimulating, healing, antimicrobial and anti irritant. Promotes the removal of wastes from the skin and aids in the promotion of new tissue growth. It is effective in creams designed to treat damaged, reddened or tired skin.

asafetida extract:ferula foetida. A botanical extract with powerful tyrosinase inhibiting properties; excellent in formulations to treat hyperpigmentation. Studies have shown this ingredient to be less sensitizing or irritating, yet as or more effective than other tyrosinase inhibitors. Also rich in antioxidant ferulic acid.

ascophyllum nodosum: algae extract withhigh concentrations of beta carotene, chlorophyll and other oligo elements. See algae extract.

ascorbic acid: vitamin C. A powerful, water-soluble antioxidant that is also used as a pH adjuster and as a perservative in cosmetics. Ascorbic glycosamine is another form.

ascorbic acid polypeptide: a highly stable and effective form of Vitamin C. Also known as Vitazyme C, the ascorbic acid attaches to an enzyme, which allows for rapid absorbtion into the skin.

ascorbyl palmitate: an ester of ascorbic acid. An antioxidant for oils and fats; keeps products fresh and prevents color change.

aveena sativa (oat kernel) extract: see oat starch.

avocado oil: natural oil from avocados that is rich in vitamins, minerals and linoleic/oleic acids. An excellent skin conditioner and moisturizer that readily penetrates the skin; nonocclusive.

azulene: a deep blue essential oil distilled from flowers of Matricaria chamomilla, or German chamomile. One of its major components, chamazulene, is an effective anti-inflammatory that encourages healing. Another component, bisabolol, is a powerful antiseptic and antimicrobial. This oil also contains flavonoids, plant acids, fatty acids, amino acids, polysaccharides, salicylate derivatives, choline, and tannin. Azulene is extremely soothing to the skin and has a distinctive smell, much like fresh hay. Only tiny amounts of this powerful essential oil are needed for product effectiveness. Aromatherapist use it as an antifungal, anti-inflammatory, and disinfectant. Excellent for treatment of dry, reddened, burned or sensitive skin.